Gingery Armenian Cucumber Salad (aka Spicy Snake Melon)
The first time an Armenian cucumber showed up in our CSA box, I had no idea what it was. (It was the one day that we didn't get a newsletter.) This would be less embarrassing if I weren't part Armenian, and proud of it, but I know zip about the food.
Since we also got other summer squash and zucchini, I thought this foot-long, ridged and curved thing was just a mutant heirloom squash. I was in a rush because I was having some vegetarian friends over, so I seeded and grated it with the others to make fritters somewhat like these ones Man of La Muncha made, only with feta. Although I squeezed and squeezed, I just could not seem to get all the water out. Alas, the fritters tasted OK, but they resembled more of a zucchini-squash-feta hash.
The next weekend I saw these same giant pale-green twisty things at the market — with a label. Oops. Cucumbers have so much water in them, of course they ruined my fritters. A quick Google later, I now know that although the Armenian cucumber tastes like a cucumber, and looks like one inside, it actually belongs to the melon family; it is sometimes called a "snake melon." Which just doesn't sound very nice. They can grow to 3 feet long!
When the cukes showed up in my box again, along with some regular cucumbers, I decided to try something different. The Potato, who likes spicy things, was so enamored of this recipe that I made a vat of it for a Labor Day picnic, where it was also a hit. You can use any cucumbers you want, but I think the mild, crunchy Armenians are the best — and they don't have to be peeled.
Spicy Ginger Cucumber Salad
Adapted from Mark Bittman's awesome Best Recipes in the World
Makes 4 servings (double it; it lasts nicely for three or four days)
1/2 cup rice vinegar
One 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped or grated
2 TB sugar
1 tsp salt
2 large regular cucumbers, peeled, halved, seeded, and sliced about 1/4-inch thick, or 1 medium-size (18-inch) Armenian cuke, washed but not peeled, then seeded and sliced
3 TB grapeseed or other neutral oil
1 red onion, quartered and sliced thinly
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
2 TB toasted sesame seeds
2 stemmed and minced small green chiles (Thai is good)
10 whole peppercorns
Mix together the vinegar, ginger, sugar and salt and toss with the cucumbers. Let stand for at least one hour — or you can make this part the night before, as I did, and let them pickle all night (they ended up nice and crispy). Drain off the liquid before the next step.
No more than an hour before you're ready to serve, and the closer to that time the better, toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet. If you're using black sesame seeds, eat one to determine when it's toasted (it should be crunchy). Set seeds aside. Put the oil in the skillet on medium; after a minute, add the onion, turmeric, chiles, and peppercorns. Cook until softened, about five minutes. Toss with the cucumber mixture and top with the sesame seeds. No need to remove the peppercorns — they're delicious — but you might want to warn people as it can be a little surprising to get one.
Comments
By Evie on September 12th, 2006 at 10:50 pm
Yum, yum, yum! Thanks for the recipe I can't wait to taste it again.