Given that Sam Mogannam, 40, was born and raised in the grocery business, you’d think he’d have long ago stopped getting excited about fresh produce. You’d be wrong. Watch him in the early morning at Bi-Rite Market, his grocery store on 18th Street in the Mission, plucking a perfectly ripe Asian pear from a farmer’s delivery truck and devouring it with distracted grunts of pleasure. The man loves food. But these tomatoes and melons are special. Mogannam grew them himself, on a thriving mini-farm surrounding the house he and his wife and business partner, Anne Walker, bought last October in Sonoma.
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