Currently Browsing: Restaurants

Looking for Mr. Goodfish: Chefs aim to expand our seafood horizons

In the chapter on New York in Bottomfeeder: How to Eat Ethically in a World of Vanishing Seafood, Taras Grescoe comes down hard on the Big Apple’s elite chefs: Though the chefs I had met were buying from small businessmen who worked sustainably, their menus were still filled with overfished species....For...

San Francisco sustainable restaurants have a blind spot for seafood

In an ideal world, when a restaurant tells you that it serves “sustainable seafood,” you could have some faith that the claim is true, that the chefs and buyers know exactly what they are getting and the issues around how it was caught. The seafood situation in the famously eco-friendly San Francisco Bay...

Great food with “a side of sustainability” in L.A.

City of angelic eateries: Some prominent restaurants in metro Los Angeles are striving to become more "sustainable" — a term without a legal definition at this moment and all too often used as a meaningless marketing term — through all sorts of new programs. The relocated Grace, for example, will feature a...

Saul’s got SOLE: The Jewish deli in Berkeley evolves

When it comes to comfort food — especially comfort food that is wrapped in "tradition" like the Jewish deli — change can cause a lot of discomfort. People want what they think will make them feel better. They want what they are used to eating, whether that means a chilled soup in the middle of winter,...

Nobu’s no-no: The rise and fall of the bluefin tuna

With the Atlantic and Mediterranean bluefin stocks plummeting to shockingly low levels, chef and restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa (24 prestigious restaurants around the world) is under pressure from a battalion of critics to remove the fish from his menu until populations are sustainable. So far, Nobu's...

Digest – Features and blogs: Free-range response, literary seasonality, the Hamburg wish list

Fighting the Averyian Flu: Researchers at Johns Hopkins University look a little deeper at the NYT pork op-ed and find that the study mentioned was funded by the National Pork Board, which represents conventional producers, and that the Trichinosis "positive" pigs tested seropositive, meaning they have the...

Postcard from England: Farm Collective opens cafe

Earlier this month I spent 10 days in England, visiting friends from grad school in London, Hove (near Brighton), and Diss (near Norwich). I was there for fun, but it was impossible not to see with Ethicurean eyes just how far ahead of America the UK is when it comes to chewing the right thing. Here's the...

Digest – Features and blogs: No flies on me, tomato realities, Osterholm revolves

The 'fix' is in: Sources say that the Obama Administration will nominate Michael Osterholm to head the USDA's Food Safety Inspection Service on Monday, in clear violation of its own anti-revolving-door policy. Osterholm is a longtime supporter of food irradiation, but that's not all - if you have any...

A foraged wild mushroom feast at Les Jardins Sauvages

When I was young, I hated mushrooms. At least, I thought I did, but I hadn't really ever eaten them. I was under the impression that they were slimy and gross, which was the basic opinion of my parents. The only mushrooms I ate until my late teens were from a can, fried with onions and well-hidden in...

“Eat This! Not That!” presents the solution to the wrong problem

“Get yourself a copy of ‘Eat This, Not That,’" someone told me recently. “It’s flying off the bookstore shelves.” I did pick up a copy. And I’m confused. Written by David Zinczenko, the editor-in-chief of “Men’s Health” magazine, "Eat This, Not That” is highly accessible and fun to read. The premise is...

Eating SOLE in Portland, Maine: Fore Street, Gilbert’s Chowder House, and Hugo’s

Got a little time to explore the dining scene of Portland, Maine? Change your plans: you’ll actually need lots and lots of time to do it right. Word on the street is that the East Coast Portland is second only to San Francisco in restaurants per capita. We’re not talking Applebee’s, either. The city is...

Bioplastics need time to grow up

Wednesday's Restaurant Journal column in the Los Angeles Times digs into the topic of takeout containers and single-use utensils at L.A. restaurants. With city bans on non-recyclable and non-compostable materials (e.g., polystyrene) and restaurants attempting to be greener, there is quite a discussion about...

« Older Entries