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Food & Wine magazine sins against the monkfish

By • on January 10, 2010

A monkfish (Wikimedia Commons) In the January 2010 issue of Food & Wine magazine, former New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni

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Tuna or not-tuna: more questions for sushi eaters

By • on December 18, 2009

When you think about eating endangered species, you might imagine going to Chinatown to some secret restaurant — or to the ones operated by shadowy mobsters like in the 1990 comedy "

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The little fish that we can: California’s sardine industry, now and then

By • on December 9, 2009

When the subject of Monterey, California, comes up, most people think of two things: the magnificent scenery and the peerless aquarium. I think of a third: sardines. Two days after Thanksgiving, I took a day trip to

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There Be Dragons: Examining the alternatives to unsustainable aquaculture fish feed

By • on November 22, 2009

February 23, 2010 update: I discovered that the credit for the grasshopper photo was incorrect. The photo is actually from tazintosh's Flickr collection and the photo's Flickr page is

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Scientists monitor tuna by measuring toxins

By • on November 13, 2009

Toxins tell tuna's tale:  The Atlantic bluefin tuna (Thunnus thynnus) population is split into two groups, with the 45 degree meridian acting as a rough dividing line. Some fish swim across the line to feed or spawn, and scientists and fishery managers would like to know how many fish make the ocean

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New research on aquaculture industry reveals murky waters surrounding fish-feed issue

By • on October 19, 2009

The products of aquaculture, the farming of sea creatures and plants, are often divided into "bad fish" — piscavores, like salmon, that eat more pounds of protein in the form of other fish than they yield — and "good fish," omnivores like tilapia and carp that can survive on plant matter. A new

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Scientists gain understanding of mercury transport in the Pacific Ocean

By • on August 7, 2009

Mercury goes with the flow: Pacific-caught tuna is one of the major sources of mercury in the U.S. diet, and so scientists are trying to understand how tuna pick up mercury. Mercury levels in the eastern North Pacific (where a significant fraction of albacore tuna are caught) have been rising recently,

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Why catch-shares and ITQs will not solve overfishing problems

By • on July 10, 2009

Catch-share no catch-all solution to ocean's troubles: Law professor Rebecca Bratspies has an excellent, if acronym-heavy essay about how privatizing the seas through the use of "catch-shares," also known as individualized transferrable quotas (ITQs), is a troubling solution to the grave problem of overfishing

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U.S. fleet irresponsibly increases bigeye tuna catch in Pacific

By • on July 10, 2009

U.S. bigeyes too big for sustainable plate: Although scientists are urging an immediate reduction in bigeye tuna catches to protect the species, and most nations are planning on reducing their bigeye catches by 10% per year, the U.S.-flagged fleet (which partly consists of recently re-flagged vessels

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Educating the public about toxins in white croaker fish

By • on July 6, 2009

Don't croak early, SoCal fishermen!: Thanks to unregulated dumping of DDT and PCBs into Southern California sewers between the 1950s and '70s, fish caught off-shore from Los Angeles can have high concentrations of toxins. The white croaker, a fish popular with SoCal's Asian community, is particularly

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The lesson of ‘less’: Why ‘The End of the Line’ seafood documentary doesn’t go far enough

By • on June 19, 2009

By Twilight Greenaway I walked out of the screening of “The End of the Line” feeling deeply uneasy. Most of my discomfort had been carefully orchestrated by the film’s director, Rupert Murray, who filled the 80 minutes with straight-talking scientists and

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Boston-area residents snap up Community Supported Fishery program

By • on June 16, 2009

Ah, but there's a catch: Taking a cue from Community Supported Agriculture programs, fishing groups in the Northeast are letting consumers buy shares in exchange for weekly allotments of local, fresh catch. Nearly 1,000 Boston-area residents will receive their first batch of wild-caught fish this month

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Good fish, bad fish? Who knows

By • on June 13, 2009

What's the catch? Hard to tell: The bad news is that restaurants and fish suppliers across the country are regularly substituting cheaper varieties of fish for more-expensive catches. The good news is that the names on the menu, such as grouper and red snapper, seem frequently to match those on the

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Nobu’s no-no: The rise and fall of the bluefin tuna

By • on June 12, 2009

With the Atlantic and Mediterranean bluefin stocks plummeting to shockingly low levels, chef and restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa (24 prestigious restaurants around the world) is under pressure from a battalion of critics to remove the fish from his menu until populations are sustainable. So far, Nobu's restaurants

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Mark Bittman on “eating fish as a treat”

By • on June 10, 2009

A boatload of guilt: Times columnist Mark Bittman has a terrific piece about how his lifelong love affair with seafood has gradually turned into an amicable separation. "Sadly, the list of fish that I don’t eat is much longer than the list of fish that I do," he writes, continuing that he considers

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