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Jimmy Stewart, cults, and a lot of broken glass: Remembering Straus Family Creamery’s opening day

By • on February 15, 2011

By Michael Straus Pictures from opening night at Straus Family Creamery, February 4, 1994. (That's me with the goatee.) Straus Family Creamery recently turned 17, and I started thinking back to those crazy times. In 1989, my older brother Albert, who’d been managing the farm and doing some pretty innovative things — including feeding our cows

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Book review: Appreciating Elizabeth Andoh’s “Kansha”

By • on February 14, 2011

Elizabeth Andoh is a prominent figure in my cooking consciousness. Her 2005 book, Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen, opened

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San Francisco sustainable restaurants have a blind spot for seafood

By • on February 1, 2011

In an ideal world, when a restaurant tells you that it serves “sustainable seafood,” you could have some faith that the claim is true, that the chefs and buyers know exactly what they are getting and the issues around how it was caught. The seafood situation in the famously eco-friendly San Francisco

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Tipping sacred cows: Reviewing “Meat: A Benign Extravagance”

By • on January 31, 2011

Mainstream culture and news abound with broad statements about our food system and the choices we make about what we put on the dinner table. Surely you’ve heard that if you want to save

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For when you Karo too much: In honor of MLK, Jr. Day, my great-grandmother’s pecan pie recipe

By • on January 17, 2011

Martin Luther King, Jr. was a big fan of pie, supposedly. (Who isn't?) A few years ago, Austin, Tex. artist Luanne Stovall was baking a buttermilk one in honor of the civil-rights activist and decided to turn sharing it into a

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Boycotting bluefin isn’t enough — time to turn on the siren

By • on January 11, 2011

Critics of the International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas often say that the acronym ICCAT might better stand for the “International Conspiracy to Catch All Tuna.” At its most recent meeting, ICCAT lived up to that derisive nickname by

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Two cookbooks give winter vegetables a starring role

By • on January 1, 2011

The temperatures have plunged below the freezing point, the first major snow of the season has blanketed the ground, and winter is officially here. Baby, it’s cold outside,

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Massive gingerbread house recall a reminder that food safety starts in the gut

By • on December 28, 2010

Grist (where I am the food editor) just got a late entry to our Scariest Food of 2010 contest: Gingerbread houses.

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Thanks, Jevons paradox! On why I won’t be replacing my spare fridge

By • on December 22, 2010

A few weeks ago, my spare side-by-side fridge/freezer up and died. I was (and remain) pissed about this. It's a fancy-pants Samsung, about four years old, and the Sears repair guy said the compressor would cost $800 to fix -- 75% of what the fridge was new. "Samsung's great for TVs, crap for fridges,"

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Olney Friends School in Ohio grows food to grow enrollment

By • on December 9, 2010

The farm-to-school movement has been gaining ground lately as advocates encourage administrators to bring more local food into school cafeterias. But at Olney

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Q&A with Michele Simon — activist, attorney, badass

By • on November 14, 2010

It's always fun to talk with someone who has such a sense of purpose that she doesn't feel the need to make nice. Michele Simon is one of those people. Let me be clear: Simon, a public health attorney for the Marin Institute, and author of Appetite

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Life as a give-a-shit-atarian: On loving peas, beets, and Tom Robbins

By • on November 1, 2010

Self-identification is one of those never-ending challenges that occupy humans. Even highly self-aware people seem to spend a lot of time defending

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An artisanal plea from a fed-up foodie

By • on October 28, 2010

When you find me behind bars, locked up for a fit of lexical rage, please know that it was granola that pushed me over the edge. Not just any granola: "artisan granola." Presumably its makers meant artisanal granola, made in limited quantities

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I am woman, hear me store: Review of “The Complete Root Cellar Book”

By • on October 20, 2010

Now that the farming season is winding down along with my energy levels, I find that I’m really grateful that the food preservation method I lean on most for the produce harvested

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Bean there, done that: A tour of Hodo Soy

By • on October 11, 2010

Farmers markets are far more than a source of good food from small farmers and a place to build connections among the community. They can also serve as incubators for food businesses, places where new entrepreneurs can try selling prepared foods on a small scale or where experienced market participants

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